Feeling Happier & Safer In Portugal

Looks like chaos. Wings, beaks and legs everywhere as a flock of storks takes flight.

It was 18 months ago that we were last in Portugal. Since then, we’ve had to learn to live with this strange new life of lockdowns, masks, vaccines and the dance of social distancing.

Which made the idea of getting on a plane to come back to Portugal both liberating and nerve-wracking.

But at the beginning of September we finally returned. And it is so, so, so good to be back.

At the risk of stating the obvious, it’s not the same. People have died. Businesses have closed. Some rules and restrictions are still in place. On the other hand…it’s still Portugal.

Church towers and dome in Evora

Back in 2020 (seems a lifetime ago), we’d been anticipating Pedal Portugal’s busiest year. Six tours were planned, all fully booked, with riders coming from Australia, Canada, the UK and the US.

Then Covid-19 reared its ugly head. We finished the first tour just in time. The pandemic was on the radar but much of the world was still in denial. Within days of our tour finishing, though, the Portuguese government began bringing in a raft of restrictions. International travel began to shut down. Many of our riders had to abandon plans for further travel and hastily rebook flights home.

After cancelling our other spring tours, we brought our own flights forward and flew home. I still remember the Portuguese taxi driver apologising for wearing a mask and not being allowed to put our luggage in the car. And I remember the contrast with the taxi driver back in England, who thought it was a lot of fuss about nothing and took zero precautions.

As 2020 wore on and global infection rates began to rise, all our planned cycle tours had to be cancelled. Things started to look up again as 2021 approached. New tours were pencilled in. And cancelled. Hopes raised. Hopes dashed.

But although none of this year’s tours were happening, we still had flights booked to Portugal. Then, out of the blue, Carolyn got a message from the English school in Viseu where we’d worked many years earlier. A teacher was away on maternity leave and they needed someone to cover lessons from the start of term until mid-November.

It was a bizarre coincidence. There didn’t seem any good reason to say no. We were desperate to come to Portugal but, with no cycle tours to give us an income, travelling around for a couple of months might be hard to justify. So, we said yes and began – nervously – to plan.

Before we left, there was a lot to think about. The normal rigmarole of things like passports, boarding cards and insurance. We also had to factor in vaccination certificates, passenger locator forms and pre-flight Covid tests.

Plus, of course, the fear there’d be some travel requirement we’d overlooked. (We didn’t even want to think about the possibility of the Covid test coming back positive!)

In many ways, the preparations were the worst part. There’s a lot of information out there online about the rules and restrictions. But everything seems to be couched in caveats and warnings that things can change without warning.

Stepping stones on the Vouga river near Viseu

But in the end it was all as straightforward as anything is in this ‘new’ world. We took our pre-flight Covid tests on a Friday morning and dropped them off as instructed. Saturday afternoon we both got confirmation of negative results. The following day we arrived at the airport way ahead of time, assuming everything would take far longer than normal.

We’d already filled in our Portuguese passenger locator forms online and other then having to show our negative test results at check-in there was no extra bureaucracy. Our RyanAir flight was at least half-empty and on arrival at Faro we were among the first passengers to get to passport control. (After a couple of hours in uncomfortable seats, we like to stretch our legs and march fast through airports.)

An immigration officer demanded to see our vaccination certificates with our passports but seemed to hardly glance at them. Seconds later we were through. And back in Portugal.

The first thing that struck us was that almost everyone was wearing masks, inside and outside. The rules on mask-wearing changed a week after we arrived. It’s no longer obligatory to wear a mask outside if you can keep your distance from other people. But interestingly the change in rules has made hardly any difference. Many people still wear masks in all kinds of outside situations, even when not close to others.

We’ve spent most of the last couple of weeks travelling around, prior to Carolyn’s teaching stint. Checking into hotels, we’ve had to show vaccination certificates, although smaller guesthouses either don’t have to or aren’t following the same rules.

Everyone wears masks in shops. At cafes and restaurants, customers only remove them when sat down and eating or drinking. Most restaurants in Portugal haven’t insisted on anything else but two have asked to see vaccination certificates – one said we can eat outside on the terrace if we don’t have one but had to show a certificate to eat inside.

So, despite our nerves, getting here was simpler than we’d expected. And now we’re here in Portugal, we feel safer. The country had a terrible spike at the start of 2020 when its hospitals were at breaking point but cases are now way down.

There’s very little ‘anti-vax’ sentiment and 81% of the population are fully vaccinated, one of the highest rates in the world.

To us, some of the mask wearing might seem excessive. On the other hand, Portugal’s currently recording a little over 1,000 new infections per day. Compare that to the UK with only 65% fully vaccinated and more than 32,000 new cases per day. Maybe more significant are the hospitalisations – around 600 per day in Portugal and nearly 8,300 in the UK.

I’m not a mathmetician, but it seems to me that Portugal is currently doing much better at dealing with Covid. Taking into account the difference in population size (10.3 million compared to almost 67 million), by my calculation new infections here are less than a quarter of those in the UK, while hospitalisations are about half.

So, Portugal: sunshine, people, scenery, wine, food, culture…less Covid. Yes, we’re very happy to be back!

The upper Douro, on the border with Spain


6 thoughts on “Feeling Happier & Safer In Portugal”

  1. Huw, Really enjoyed reading “Feeling Happier “! Cycling has gone by the wayside for me since Covid hit as i am not enthusiastic about cycling in the greater Toronto area. Contemplating heading across the pond to Portugal next month so found reading about your experience helpful and encouraging on many levels. After being basically being locked up for so long making that first step to get out there again comes with anxiety. Looking forward to hearing more from you and Carolyn.

    1. Hi Louise.
      Totally understand your anxiety – particularly a long-haul flight.
      We’re very happy being here. Since I wrote the article, infection rates in Portugal have continued downwards – now at less than 500 per day and the country has the highest vaccination rate in the world!
      Rules have been relaxed further but the vast majority of people are still wearing masks, using hand sanitizer etc so it feels safer here.

  2. COVID certificates in restaurants are only required if you eat inside on weekends.
    Also they should only accept EU certificates ( they risk being fined if they accept NHS certificates).
    All Hotels and even camping parks require a certificate regardless of size.
    If you don’t have a EU certificate you can carry out a test in the presence of a staff member instead

    1. Hi Sergio.
      Actually NHS certificates are acceptable – there was an agreement between EU and UK governments.
      Although I believe a lot of the rules are being lifted tomorrow?

      1. Hi,
        Yes, since the 01 October you are no longer required to present a certificate or take a test to go to a restaurant or lodging (now it’s required for late night clubs and bars). You’re right about the recent agreement between the EU and the UK but venues are supposed to check certificates using a app and I believe that hasn’t been updated yet to validate NHS certificates…

  3. Great to hear you two are moving on. Sounds fantastic! Interesting comparisons wirh the UK; I guess we’re so arrogant. So many covid deniers even now.
    I shall continue with my garden projects and being back in the saddle (horse). Might even dust the cobwebs off my bike – who knows! Mum has advanced dementia now, still at home, but with live-in care.

    Best wishes,

    Janet McCormack 🙂

Leave a Comment

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.